Having written my previous article on scanning slides with a digital camera I have decided apply the theory to copying negatives. Using Adobe Lightroom which is my favourite image processing application, I will show how to obtain perfect negative copies including removal of the negative colour mask. These steps may be equally applied in photoshop using Adobe Camera Raw or for free using The Gimp and UFRAW

I will explain how to obtain true colour digital images from your negatives
The steps below allow me to obtain perfect colour balance.
- It is crucial that you shoot in RAW format so that the white balance may be changed after capture – do not worry about the white balance setting at this point
- Have a white background on your monitor screen such as an empty google page for example
- Set the film leader in your toilet tube holder, or other suitable negative holder
- Take a photo of the film leader
- In Lightroom Invert the film leader by choosing the ‘Develop’ module -> locating to the ‘Tone Curve’ section -> selecting Linear Curve -> and moving the left and right corners vertically opposite, as shown below.
- Now the frame numbers which are always negative white, are the colour which we want to set our white balance from, using Lightroom’s white balance dropper.
- Lightroom’s White Balance ‘Temp’ and ‘Tint’ will now have changed to suit our negative’s colour balance.
- Note the ‘Temp’ and ‘Tint’ values so that they can applied to the rest of the negatives.
- Set the negative that you actually want to scan / copy in your toilet tube holder, or other suitable clamp – and take the photo. Here’s what I ended up with:
- I now apply invert the image by setting a linear point curve and reversing the ends:
- I manually set the colour temperature from the first film leader that we shot.
- Now press ‘Auto’ in the Tone adjustment box to correct the colours that you are seeing and you should have a pretty much perfect image.
- I had to add a couple of points to the tone curve to restore some contrast, you may have to do the same.
- Please see my finished frame, cropped and straightened below.
- I found tweaking the colour temperature and tint slightly improved the image, but once you have a good value, it is completely repeatable across the remainder of the roll of negatives, as it should be

This is the Negative Film Leader

This is how your tone curve should look when you're done

Take the white measurement from the centre of a white frame number

This is the white balance that we shall apply to the remainder of our roll

This is how the negative looks before processing

This is how your tone curve should look when you're done

We apply the Temp and Tint settings that we obtained from our film leader

This is the result of our prep work - a well balanced image
Completing this process results in scans that retain some of the colour properties of the film image. For extra bang, like you get from a digital camera, you can apply camera profiles to the image, or export it to photoshop / GIMP and apply ‘Auto Colours’ which liven the images up a little to more what you’d expect from a saturated digital image.
I was delighted with the outcome of this research. Stay tuned for some more where I will experiment with varying the colour of the backlight supplied by the monitor.







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Hello John,
As I was struggling to find a way to invert negatives in Lightroom, I found your article, which seems very promising. However, I cannot move the left and right corners in the Tone Curve section… They stay within the range of the separate regions. How do I get the curve to move like you do???? Or does it work only in Lightroom 3 and not in Lightroom 2?
best regards, Casper
Hello John,
I found the answer already, with Lightroom-3 I can adjust the curve, with Lightroom-2 not.
I find that it helps to get it about 70% of the way there after inversion, and then exporting it as a TIFF and then re-importing it back, so that the exposure/etc controls work as expected. This also lets you take some tweaking further than you could the first time around.
Hi, I’ve just tried your method, but I think it did not went very well…I used my Lumix FZ20 (not a DSLR, but it’s a nice Bridge camera) and the lcd monitor as a backlight, but all the photos of the 35mm negative came out blurryish, and you could see the pixels behind the negative…do you have any idea on how can I correct this??
Thanks in advance!
Antonio,
It sounds to me like your camera may be focusing on the background screen rather than the negative. Because you probably don’t have the option to manually focus the camera lens, you should increase your aperture opening (manually set the aperture to F8, F5 or F4) and/or move the negative away from the monitor (to try and throw the monitor out of focus).
When moving away from the monitor it’s extra important to turn the lights off in the room and shut the window curtains to ensure that all the light received by your camera is coming from the monitor through the negative.
Thanks,
John
Hey, i know it’s an old article but i had to let you know how much your tutorial helped me, now i’m in love with film! Here’s an image i achieved using you method + tweaking the “camera callibration” section. 59. http://flic.kr/p/awqBhp