Updated 30/08/2010 – I have now written my step by step guide on scanning negative film
Updated 16/09/2010 – Please see my colour and black and white negative copy results pages

I describe how to incorporate film into a digital workflow
Last year I decided to experiment with a film camera and purchased a Nikon FM3a. The camera produces excellent results, but there is the problem of incorporating the film images into my otherwise completely digital workflow.
After googling the issue which many other film photographers have faced I read several web articles about using Digital SLRs to capture developed film, utilising macro lenses. I own a Nikkor 105mm 2.8 Micro lens and a Nikon D300, so I set about photographing my 35mm films so that I could store them with the remainder of my digital workflow.
I find that captured images of my slides actually retain the properties of the slide film rather well, the limitations of the DSLR (dynamic range for example) are minimised because the capture is being taken in such a controlled environment.
My Copying Setup
Other sites recommend utilising a dedicated light source such as a light box behind the film to be captured, with the Digital SLR secured on a mount pointed towards the film. I don’t. I have a perfectly good light table with configurable colour temperature… my computer’s monitor!
- I make sure that the computer monitor is setup with a white background – such as an empty Google homepage – behind the film to be copied.
- I attach my home-made slide / negative copy adaptor

This is the Toilet Roll Tube Copy Jig, note the seperate piece at the end which is cut to accept slides and may be swapped as required
- I setup the camera pointing at the monitor’s white background, and take a custom white balance shot to ensure a neutral colour balance in the final capture – The camera may be mounted on an old book, or on a mini tripod, whatever works best for you.
- I place the slide film in to the toilet roll jig – in front of the white computer monitor.
- I arrange the film so that a very small border (say 1mm) is visible around the film.
- I set the camera to fire on a 10 second timer to minimise camera shake, and ensure that the viewfinder is covered to prevent the open viewfinder affecting the camera’s exposure measurements.
- I dim the surrounding room by either turning off the lights or shutting the curtains.
- With the camera on Aperture Priority mode Aperture of F22 or higher, I press the shutter release and stand clear to minimise shake.
- The exposure can be as long as 2 seconds.
- Once set up, it should take less than 30mins to have excellent quality copies of your slides.

This is the photo of a slide captured from the North Bridge in Edinburgh
- I open the RAW files in Adobe Lightroom for colour balance editing, sharpening & cropping.

The same slide - processed in Lightroom
Above you can see that the slide has benefit from being processed in Adobe Lightroom. The same effect can be reproduced in Photoshop or freely using the GIMP. There was a slight red tone to the clouds in the original slide capture that has been removed.
The areas of the original photo that were sharp remain pin sharp in my macro photo of the slide. Take a look at the 100% crop below and see just how sharp the results are.

This image shows just how sharp the slide copy is
When walking around a place I visit regularly such as Edinburgh, I prefer the compact form factor of my Fm3a, combined with the fact that film makes you think before you shoot. Using my DSLR to capture the slides taken on one of my short visits; at no additional cost; gives me complete control over my photographs via my normal digital workflow. Anyone who has had a disappointing film scan from a photo lab will appreciate the high quality of the output that is possible using equipment that they already have available.
The following sites are great references for more of the same information: Print Head, Simple Slide Copy Jig, Macro Lens & Tripod, Toilet Tube Macro Photography







On thing to take note of … computer monitors typically output color differently as the temperature changes. So make sure the monitor is warmed up before you start, and reset the white balance every so often.
Thanks Scott that’s a great tip!
If the monitor has been well warmed up before you start (say fully switched on for 30 minutes or so) then you should be OK to complete a single roll / batch of photos from a single white balance measurement.
I think It would definitely be worth taking a fresh white balance shot at the start of each roll if you plan to scan more than one roll of film or 1 batch of slides and a very accurate colour balance is important to your batch of scans.
I’ve done something similar, but have used my old light table as it is already color corrected in comparison to a computer monitor. Nice post, I always enjoy a little DIY!
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Does this also work with negatives?
Hey Pedro,
Yes, Please follow my link on how to invert negatives so that you get great photos once you’ve completed the copying!
Hi John, thanks a lot for your prompt response!
I did a great job here.
I am looking for more details on how to construct the Toilet Roll Tube Copy Jig.
Where can I find a detailed tutorial?
Why F22 or smaller? I always thought that the best resolution could be obtained before F11 to minimize diffraction. Specially taking into account that the film is all on the same plane, I would expect F8 to be aprox ideal. Care to comment? Thanks!
Smaller apertures such as F22 allow for sharp photos on small format cameras such as 35mm or DX format.
The F22 allows for enough DOF to capture the natural bends and curves of the films in sharp focus. The zoom of your lens, distance from subject and film flatness will determine your required aperture to achieve sharp results.
Good luck and have fun!